I know that the "Terrible Two's" is how we refer to babies in their second year of life. A year of a dog's life is supposed to be equal to 7 years of a human, but the Terrible Twos for Harleigh refers to Week 2 at home.
We had made it through our first week. We were beginning to sleep appx 3 hours at a time during the night! We had a feeding routine. We had a bathroom routine. I had learned to keep a little Supply Caddy of all the necessary supplies close by because you never knew when you needed them at moment's notice. In my Supply Caddy were:
1. Paper towels
2. Bathroom tissue
3. Sanitary wipes
4. A chew toy
5. Diluted white vinegar
RULE #7 - Keep a "Supply Caddy" within a few feet at all times!
Terrible Two's #1
Things were looking bright. The only problem was that this little puppy didn't understand that her teeth were like sharp little needles. She didn't realize that when she was playing with me, she was hurting me. She had actually drawn blood three times and my arm was riddled with puncture marks and bruises. I looked like a heroin addict and was embarrassed to leave the house without long sleeves.
I turned to the internet for answers. According to the experts, it is important to not use negative responses like pinning the dog down, holding its snout, spanking the dog, yelling at the dog, etc. Apparently, those tiny razor sharp teeth were intended by nature to allow these little demons to tear up their first meat when their mothers weaned them from milk and introduced hard food. Unfortunately, Harleigh's first taste of flesh was my arms and hands.
When the puppy gets too rough:
Step 1: Firmly say "No biting". Move your hand away. Put your hand back (like waving a red cape in front of a mad bull). When the puppy licks you, shower them with love and positive comments. If there is a bite, make a loud "Ow!" sound and say "No Biting". Make sure the tones of your voice are distinguishable between positive comments and negative scolding. They shouldn't be able to misinterpret your meaning.
Step 2: Have something else that is appropriate to chew on and hold that for them to chew and bite. (I keep a little blue rubber teething bone.) Praise the puppy when they chew the correct item. Go back to Step 1 if they prefer the taste of your skin and blood.
Step 3: When this fails, stop handling the puppy and remove yourself from the situation. Puppies want that interaction. They want to be with you and they want your attention. In a litter, if a puppy is hurt during play, they stop playing and go somewhere else and lay down away from the aggressor. It trains the puppy to understand what is unacceptable behavior.
It is important to distract you puppy from negative behavior. I have enough toys to always have something within reach. She has four different chew toys now.
But with all these toys, her favorite is an old sock!
My problem with Harleigh seems to be that she gets overstimulated. When she plays, she is wide open. She gets overexcited and doesn't realize what she is doing. Things were going very well and then she got to playing very hard. When I picked her up, she bit my face below my lip drawing blood. I reacted the opposite to everything the internet suggested and one little, white, furry bottom got tore up. She hasn't bit my face since. Even though I knew better, I reacted from pain and anger.
BUT did I ever feel remorse and regret! As the old saying goes, "It hurt me much more than it hurt her."
Terrible Two's #2
Harleigh's behavior was becoming a concern. She was just playing too hard. I was afraid she was becoming too aggressive. I am so glad I have good internet speed!
Apparently, it is important to establish yourself as the alpha in your pack. I just assumed that went without saying since I outweighed this little thing by almost 50 to 1.
But it seems that I was making some mistakes. Here are some strange but true guidance rules for establishing your dominance.
1. You should always enter through any door first. The alpha always goes first.
2. You eat before the puppy. Not at the same time. First. The puppy has to see you eat and finish before he/she gets fed. The alpha always eats first and what is leftover goes to the rest of pack.
3. You determine when it is playtime, when it is bedtime.
4. The puppy has to get used to your absence. You cannot come running every time she whimpers, whines, or barks. You do not let her out of the crate for this behavior unless it is to go to the potty. You are available to her on your schedule.
Rule #8: Establish yourself as the alpha in your pack!
Terrible Two's #3
My husband and I made some rookie mistakes when we got Harleigh home. We had allowed some behaviors that we thought were cute at the time, but those behaviors got old very quickly. One of them was that she liked to bite and pull on pants legs.
Another was chewing on shoestrings and untying them. We thought she was a little Houdini.
Both of these behaviors became difficult habits to break. Again, we had to use the four strategies above. She is slowly showing improvement.
Terrible Two's #4
This one will make you cringe. I caught Harleigh eating her own poop. Now, what's up with that!?
According to the internet, this isn't that uncommon. They even make products that you can sprinkle on her food or chew tablets that will make her poop very bitter and undesirable.
Puppies will eat their poop for various reasons. Mother dogs eat their puppies' poop to clean up after them and keep them safe. (GROSS!) They will eat their poop to hide their scents from predators. The food may be so rich in minerals and proteins that some of it can remain in the waste and be desirable for consumption.
I spoke directly to my vet about this one. She said it was extremely important to no scold her. She would misinterpret that for making a bowel movement being a bad thing. You can't make using the bathroom a negative experience. That is why you should never scold a puppy for mistakes or "rub their nose" in their mess.
The most important thing is to stay calm. Watch your bet carefully when he/she is sniffing around or whimpering (signs of going to the bathroom). When the puppy goes #2, you praise it. You have tissue handy and distract them with a toy while you dispose of the waste.
This actually worked beautifully! I got an extra sock that I carried around in my pocket with some tissue. When she goes poopy, I praise her, take out the sock and drag it into the kitchen while she chases it, throw the sock down, go back to the scene of the crime and quickly dispose of the evidence.
Harleigh is very smart though. She was curious and wanted to see what I do with this. I let her follow me into the bathroom where I threw the mess in the toiled and flushed it. Then I got her a treat.
Since the first time I caught her doing this, I've been very consistent with how I handle it. She has responded so well that she can actually make #2 and will come let me know, so I can dispose of it and give her a snack. No powders, pills, or chemicals were necessary.
Terrible Two's #5
Out of sight, out of mind needs to be your daily mantra. When Harleigh realized she wouldn't be biting pants, shoestrings, shoes, arms, hands, legs, and faces, she needed to take her teething pain out on something else. She started chewing the window sills and cabinet corners. EVEN WITH AN ABUNDANCE OF CHEW TOYS!
We had to put boxes and gates around all the windows. She finally gave up. She even tries to chew chair legs. I'm afraid to use deterrents for fear it may give her diarrhea.
Terrible Two's #6
I have become worried about the number of times Harleigh tinkles every day. I know she is just a puppy, but I am finding her going more often than I think is healthy. BUT she also drinks a lot of water.
She plays very hard. She jumps, runs, rolls, tackles. Then she drinks water. Then she tinkles. If it were a real problem, I would think she couldn't last three hours during a naptime without going, right?
According to the internet, a puppy should consume as much as 1/2 - 1.5 ounces of water per pound of body weight. I started monitoring her water consumption. During her 9 week vet visit for her shots, she had gained almost 11 ounces in one week and was up to 4 lbs. She easily consumes 8 ounces of water each day.
It is on my list for my next Vet visit. As helpful as the internet can be, it can also cause an owner to worry.
I have fondly said that I have a West Highland White Terror living with me. But she is a sweet little girl. We just need to get through these tough times.
Miss Harleigh sleeps about as hard as she plays!
Tuesday, June 9, 2020
Thursday, June 4, 2020
Chapter 5 - The Honeymoon Phase (Week 1)
Chapter 5 - The Honeymoon Phase (Week 1)
Day 2 (Settling In)
Back to the internet and searching ... "How many hours can a puppy hold their bladder?" Answer: Less than 2 months old: 1 - 2 hours. After 2 months: 1 hour for each month of life + 1 hour. After five months old, most puppies can make it through the night. Important note: Do not give your puppy food or water within two - three hours of bedtime. The less food and water before bedtime, the longer they can hold their bladder.
Rule #4: No food or water two-three hours before bedtime! (Note - if my puppy is thirsty, I'll put the water bowl down and allow her to drink a little. I've even done it in the middle of the night when we get up for a potty break. I tend to err in favor of the puppy's needs.)
___________
The next morning, we went straight to the bathroom pad. We had breakfast (almost 1/3 cup of food). And we played like there was no tomorrow! What happened to that timid little puppy?
The day went pretty well. We started establishing a routine quickly. Puppies need to be fed three times daily for the first few months of their lives. I am an early riser, so she gets breakfast before 6:00 a.m. Lunch is around noon. Dinner is between 7:00 - 8:00 p.m. I was told to avoid training treats the first couple weeks and only offer a few pieces of her kibble for positive reenforcement.
Rule #5: Establish the routine. A puppy's bathroom breaks can actually be on schedule. So can their nap times and playtimes.
____________
There was a lot of love. A lot of play. A lot of naps. Things were beginning to look bright.
... Until bedtime. She decided she did not like our crate at all and whimpered and barked for 15 minutes. I didn't give in. She finally gave up and slept for almost an hour.
Following Rule #4, the water and food dishes were pulled up at 8:30. She did pretty well, the longest stretch was 2 hours. But that 2 hours was blissful sleep for the owner.
Day 3 (Visiting the Vet)
The next morning was our first trip to the Vet. The puppy contract form the breeder requires that the new owner visit a veterinarian within 48 hours of sale.
I love my vet. She was Millie's vet. I trust her. She is honest. She is forthright. She is kind.
The ride there was heart wrenching. It was like Harleigh thought she was being returned. She barked. She howled. She whimpered. She whined. She did not like this turn in events at all.
I had made a list of concerns to be addressed.
A. Adding food to her current diet. I really like high-end, grain-free food with specific ingredients. Farina produces a puppy food with lamb, pumpkin, and blueberries. I purchased a bag and wanted to add a little to Harleigh's current diet. (I took the bag with me for her to see.) My Vet liked this food a lot and had actually used it with her own dogs. She said her only concern was that it softened the dogs' stools. We will postpone that idea for a few weeks.
B. I didn't want to bathe her too much because I had read online that it can cause skin drying, itching, irritation. Harleigh brought a strong odor with her from the breeder's, and I really needed to get rid of it! She suggested an aloe and oatmeal shampoo that was free of harmful detergents. ($24 - Just add it to the bill!)
C. When Harleigh was born she had a little kink in the end of her tail. It wasn't that noticeable, but the breeder told me that she could never be shown because of it. I don't plan on showing her, so that isn't a consideration. The breeder told me that her vet said it probably happened in vitro and may correct itself. I checked this out online and it is common when there is a large litter and a smaller dame. She carries her tail correctly. She walks normal. I just wanted my vet to support that I needn't worry. My vet said it was completely cosmetic and nothing to worry about.
D. She needed her 8-week deworming.
"She's a stinking cute little puppy! And that's my professional opinion!" Harleigh got a clean bill of health. But she wouldn't be allowed around other dogs or people until she had her shots.
Home we headed. Only break in routine was a bath in the afternoon. Evening routine was great! We are on a decent sleep schedule. We're moving closer to two hours between breaks.
Day 4 - 7 (The Art of Compromise)
As Harleigh was becoming accustomed to her new home and routine, her personality started emerging. She can be strong-willed, stubborn, and persistent.
1. Where to eat:
I had established her eating location to a pad at the farthest end of our kitchen in a little corner. She actually likes it there. My breeder had told me not to leave water down because she would play in it. Because the bowl is in a metal holder, it is too heavy for her turn over. She has never played in it, so I leave it down with water in it until bedtime. It took her a few days, but she knows that is where she gets water and goes there consistently.
I do not free-feed her. I leave her food bowl down for 1 hour and then take it up. I put any leftovers in a glass dish that is covered. It gets mixed in with the next meal. She is learning to eat what she wants when it is provided.
2. Where to sleep:
I had established her bedding area about six feet from the feeding bowls, up against our kitchen island. Even though she had a nice bed, I found her going to sleep under the desk area in the kitchen. It's actually a nice covered, three sided area. She feels safe there. One day she pulled her bed over there, climbed in, and slept for almost 2 hours.
I hadn't considered putting it there, but she apparently wanted it there and it has been there ever since. When she gets tired and sleepy, that's where she goes. It's out of the way. No problem.
3. Where to play:
Harleigh does not lack for toys. There is a pretty good sized area between our kitchen island and the eat-in furniture (appx. 8' x 12'). There's plenty of room to chase, tackle, attack, run and roughhouse. It's easy for me to get on the floor with her there and play.
4. Where to potty:
If you are going to housebreak your puppy to go outside, then you will need to be consistent and take her to same place every time. I am training Harleigh to use pee pee pads. I purchased a bottle of attractant to use on the pads. (That stuff works miracles, you can even use it on grass!)
I had originally put the pads between her sleeping area and play area. I actually found her laying on the pads, carrying her toys to the pads, being inconsistent with using the pads for their intended usage. (Remember the photo of the lovely pad holder!)
This is the actuality of the situation!
It seems that pee pads can be mistaken for toys if they are too close to the play area! Extra effort and training was necessary to correct this. I am still having to correct this behavior occasionally.
About midway through the week, Harleigh had discovered the back hallway. (At first she was reluctant to go back there. Now she runs up and down the hallway like it's race lane!)
She started going to the bathroom back there. Once she even pulled a pee pad back there. Very intelligent puppy! I moved her pad holder and pads back there. There have been fewer and fewer mistakes.
I returned back to the internet and found that the dog's living space is its den. It eats, sleeps, and plays in its den. It doesn't use the bathroom in its den. Harleigh had established her den as the kitchen area. It was unacceptable to her to use the bathroom in the kitchen area. She actually helped establish where to put her pads.
RULE #6 - The art of compromise. Pay attention to your puppy's needs.
Try to work with the puppy to satisfy the needs and the training will go easier. Some things may be nonnegotiable, but be flexible when possible. By allowing Harleigh to help establish where her bedding would be and where she would be using the bathroom, it has made her training easier.
We had a pretty good routine. There was a place for everything and everything was in its place. The layout was satisfactory to owner and puppy. There was plenty of play time. Sleep time was becoming more consistent. (By the way, according to the internet, a puppy can sleep as much as 18 hours. I'm not sure what breed that puppy is, but my puppy gets in plenty of play time.) Although sailing wasn't as smooth as desired, we had a good course chartered and were heading in the right direction!
Day 2 (Settling In)
Back to the internet and searching ... "How many hours can a puppy hold their bladder?" Answer: Less than 2 months old: 1 - 2 hours. After 2 months: 1 hour for each month of life + 1 hour. After five months old, most puppies can make it through the night. Important note: Do not give your puppy food or water within two - three hours of bedtime. The less food and water before bedtime, the longer they can hold their bladder.
Rule #4: No food or water two-three hours before bedtime! (Note - if my puppy is thirsty, I'll put the water bowl down and allow her to drink a little. I've even done it in the middle of the night when we get up for a potty break. I tend to err in favor of the puppy's needs.)
___________
The next morning, we went straight to the bathroom pad. We had breakfast (almost 1/3 cup of food). And we played like there was no tomorrow! What happened to that timid little puppy?
The day went pretty well. We started establishing a routine quickly. Puppies need to be fed three times daily for the first few months of their lives. I am an early riser, so she gets breakfast before 6:00 a.m. Lunch is around noon. Dinner is between 7:00 - 8:00 p.m. I was told to avoid training treats the first couple weeks and only offer a few pieces of her kibble for positive reenforcement.
Rule #5: Establish the routine. A puppy's bathroom breaks can actually be on schedule. So can their nap times and playtimes.
____________
There was a lot of love. A lot of play. A lot of naps. Things were beginning to look bright.
... Until bedtime. She decided she did not like our crate at all and whimpered and barked for 15 minutes. I didn't give in. She finally gave up and slept for almost an hour.
Following Rule #4, the water and food dishes were pulled up at 8:30. She did pretty well, the longest stretch was 2 hours. But that 2 hours was blissful sleep for the owner.
Day 3 (Visiting the Vet)
The next morning was our first trip to the Vet. The puppy contract form the breeder requires that the new owner visit a veterinarian within 48 hours of sale.
I love my vet. She was Millie's vet. I trust her. She is honest. She is forthright. She is kind.
The ride there was heart wrenching. It was like Harleigh thought she was being returned. She barked. She howled. She whimpered. She whined. She did not like this turn in events at all.
I had made a list of concerns to be addressed.
A. Adding food to her current diet. I really like high-end, grain-free food with specific ingredients. Farina produces a puppy food with lamb, pumpkin, and blueberries. I purchased a bag and wanted to add a little to Harleigh's current diet. (I took the bag with me for her to see.) My Vet liked this food a lot and had actually used it with her own dogs. She said her only concern was that it softened the dogs' stools. We will postpone that idea for a few weeks.
B. I didn't want to bathe her too much because I had read online that it can cause skin drying, itching, irritation. Harleigh brought a strong odor with her from the breeder's, and I really needed to get rid of it! She suggested an aloe and oatmeal shampoo that was free of harmful detergents. ($24 - Just add it to the bill!)
C. When Harleigh was born she had a little kink in the end of her tail. It wasn't that noticeable, but the breeder told me that she could never be shown because of it. I don't plan on showing her, so that isn't a consideration. The breeder told me that her vet said it probably happened in vitro and may correct itself. I checked this out online and it is common when there is a large litter and a smaller dame. She carries her tail correctly. She walks normal. I just wanted my vet to support that I needn't worry. My vet said it was completely cosmetic and nothing to worry about.
D. She needed her 8-week deworming.
"She's a stinking cute little puppy! And that's my professional opinion!" Harleigh got a clean bill of health. But she wouldn't be allowed around other dogs or people until she had her shots.
Home we headed. Only break in routine was a bath in the afternoon. Evening routine was great! We are on a decent sleep schedule. We're moving closer to two hours between breaks.
Day 4 - 7 (The Art of Compromise)
As Harleigh was becoming accustomed to her new home and routine, her personality started emerging. She can be strong-willed, stubborn, and persistent.
1. Where to eat:
I had established her eating location to a pad at the farthest end of our kitchen in a little corner. She actually likes it there. My breeder had told me not to leave water down because she would play in it. Because the bowl is in a metal holder, it is too heavy for her turn over. She has never played in it, so I leave it down with water in it until bedtime. It took her a few days, but she knows that is where she gets water and goes there consistently.
I do not free-feed her. I leave her food bowl down for 1 hour and then take it up. I put any leftovers in a glass dish that is covered. It gets mixed in with the next meal. She is learning to eat what she wants when it is provided.
2. Where to sleep:
I had established her bedding area about six feet from the feeding bowls, up against our kitchen island. Even though she had a nice bed, I found her going to sleep under the desk area in the kitchen. It's actually a nice covered, three sided area. She feels safe there. One day she pulled her bed over there, climbed in, and slept for almost 2 hours.
I hadn't considered putting it there, but she apparently wanted it there and it has been there ever since. When she gets tired and sleepy, that's where she goes. It's out of the way. No problem.
3. Where to play:
Harleigh does not lack for toys. There is a pretty good sized area between our kitchen island and the eat-in furniture (appx. 8' x 12'). There's plenty of room to chase, tackle, attack, run and roughhouse. It's easy for me to get on the floor with her there and play.
4. Where to potty:
If you are going to housebreak your puppy to go outside, then you will need to be consistent and take her to same place every time. I am training Harleigh to use pee pee pads. I purchased a bottle of attractant to use on the pads. (That stuff works miracles, you can even use it on grass!)
I had originally put the pads between her sleeping area and play area. I actually found her laying on the pads, carrying her toys to the pads, being inconsistent with using the pads for their intended usage. (Remember the photo of the lovely pad holder!)
This is the actuality of the situation!
It seems that pee pads can be mistaken for toys if they are too close to the play area! Extra effort and training was necessary to correct this. I am still having to correct this behavior occasionally.
About midway through the week, Harleigh had discovered the back hallway. (At first she was reluctant to go back there. Now she runs up and down the hallway like it's race lane!)
She started going to the bathroom back there. Once she even pulled a pee pad back there. Very intelligent puppy! I moved her pad holder and pads back there. There have been fewer and fewer mistakes.
I returned back to the internet and found that the dog's living space is its den. It eats, sleeps, and plays in its den. It doesn't use the bathroom in its den. Harleigh had established her den as the kitchen area. It was unacceptable to her to use the bathroom in the kitchen area. She actually helped establish where to put her pads.
RULE #6 - The art of compromise. Pay attention to your puppy's needs.
Try to work with the puppy to satisfy the needs and the training will go easier. Some things may be nonnegotiable, but be flexible when possible. By allowing Harleigh to help establish where her bedding would be and where she would be using the bathroom, it has made her training easier.
We had a pretty good routine. There was a place for everything and everything was in its place. The layout was satisfactory to owner and puppy. There was plenty of play time. Sleep time was becoming more consistent. (By the way, according to the internet, a puppy can sleep as much as 18 hours. I'm not sure what breed that puppy is, but my puppy gets in plenty of play time.) Although sailing wasn't as smooth as desired, we had a good course chartered and were heading in the right direction!
Chapter 4 - Day1 (The Arrival)
Chapter 4 - Day 1 (The Arrival)
Harleigh was quiet in the puppy carrier all the way home. After seeing the conditions at the breeder, I knew she had been left to her own devices and there had been little to no training. I didn't know what to expect, but I knew to "expect the unexpected".
Initially, I was planning to let my new puppy have access to most of the downstairs: the foyer and den (hard wood floors with oriental rugs), the kitchen, back hallway, laundry room/mud room/bathroom (tiled floors), and the half bath (also tiled floor). First mistake! Too much space means too much to get into, too much to damage, too much to mess on. All doors got shut, all doorways got barricaded. We are now limited to the eat-in kitchen and back hallway.
After hearing, "They like to pee on the rug", we decided to roll up all our carpets and put them in another room. At least for now. She remained in her travel carrier while we rolled everything up and put it away.
RULE #1: Don't leave anything around you do not want damaged.
_________
When we let her out of her carrier, she tentatively inspected the area. She seemed very timid and shy.
I introduced her to her bathroom space and I actually got a pee pee on the pad! I was thrilled.
She appreciated her new bed!
I fed her lunch and she ate almost all the 1/3 cup! I expected her to have a BM, but she climbed in her bed and went to sleep. She was exhausted.
She had a pattern that first day, sleep for 1 hour, play and investigate for 30 minutes, sleep for another hour.
There were a couple potty mistakes that day, but I knew they couldn't be avoided. But training had started and there were success stories, too. She had a good dinner, played a little more, used the pee pad (again!), and then conked out in her bed.
Since her space was limited, it was easy to keep an eye on her while I worked at the computer station in the kitchen.
Rule #2: Define her space - making sure there are separate areas for eating, bathroom, and playing.
__________After hearing, "They mess in their cages and then walk in it," I turned to the internet for advice. I think the problem at the breeders was that she had multiple puppies sharing large cages. According to the internet (I will always be grateful to the World Wide Web), the puppy's crate should have just enough space to stand, turn around, and lie down in a small bed. The internet authority pointed out that the puppy will NOT use the bathroom in their bed. The mistake many people make is giving the puppy too much space. I had to block off 2/3 of the crate I was using and replace the crate bed with a smaller one.
Rule #3: Prepare the crate correctly with just enough space for the puppy to stand, turn around in, and lay down in a small bed.
_____________
When my husband got home from work that evening, we put her in her crate, so we could have a little break together and watch an hour television. I put the crate in our bedroom, so she could see us while we were watching TV. She was very good.
After the television show, I took her back to the kitchen and we played about an hour, she did both bathrooms, then she tired out and was put in her crate for the night.
I set my clock alarm to go off every 90 minutes. Sometimes she woke we whining to get out before the alarm went off. In each case, she would use the bathroom, play for about 30 minutes, get tired, and be ready to sleep for another 60 - 90 minutes. To say the least, I woke up exhausted!
Harleigh was quiet in the puppy carrier all the way home. After seeing the conditions at the breeder, I knew she had been left to her own devices and there had been little to no training. I didn't know what to expect, but I knew to "expect the unexpected".
Initially, I was planning to let my new puppy have access to most of the downstairs: the foyer and den (hard wood floors with oriental rugs), the kitchen, back hallway, laundry room/mud room/bathroom (tiled floors), and the half bath (also tiled floor). First mistake! Too much space means too much to get into, too much to damage, too much to mess on. All doors got shut, all doorways got barricaded. We are now limited to the eat-in kitchen and back hallway.
After hearing, "They like to pee on the rug", we decided to roll up all our carpets and put them in another room. At least for now. She remained in her travel carrier while we rolled everything up and put it away.
RULE #1: Don't leave anything around you do not want damaged.
_________
When we let her out of her carrier, she tentatively inspected the area. She seemed very timid and shy.
I introduced her to her bathroom space and I actually got a pee pee on the pad! I was thrilled.
She appreciated her new bed!
I fed her lunch and she ate almost all the 1/3 cup! I expected her to have a BM, but she climbed in her bed and went to sleep. She was exhausted.
She had a pattern that first day, sleep for 1 hour, play and investigate for 30 minutes, sleep for another hour.
There were a couple potty mistakes that day, but I knew they couldn't be avoided. But training had started and there were success stories, too. She had a good dinner, played a little more, used the pee pad (again!), and then conked out in her bed.
Since her space was limited, it was easy to keep an eye on her while I worked at the computer station in the kitchen.
Rule #2: Define her space - making sure there are separate areas for eating, bathroom, and playing.
__________After hearing, "They mess in their cages and then walk in it," I turned to the internet for advice. I think the problem at the breeders was that she had multiple puppies sharing large cages. According to the internet (I will always be grateful to the World Wide Web), the puppy's crate should have just enough space to stand, turn around, and lie down in a small bed. The internet authority pointed out that the puppy will NOT use the bathroom in their bed. The mistake many people make is giving the puppy too much space. I had to block off 2/3 of the crate I was using and replace the crate bed with a smaller one.
Rule #3: Prepare the crate correctly with just enough space for the puppy to stand, turn around in, and lay down in a small bed.
_____________
When my husband got home from work that evening, we put her in her crate, so we could have a little break together and watch an hour television. I put the crate in our bedroom, so she could see us while we were watching TV. She was very good.
After the television show, I took her back to the kitchen and we played about an hour, she did both bathrooms, then she tired out and was put in her crate for the night.
I set my clock alarm to go off every 90 minutes. Sometimes she woke we whining to get out before the alarm went off. In each case, she would use the bathroom, play for about 30 minutes, get tired, and be ready to sleep for another 60 - 90 minutes. To say the least, I woke up exhausted!
Chapter 3 - Picking Out The Puppy
Chapter 3 - Picking Out the Puppy
On May 26, one day shy of eight weeks from her birth, my husband and I got in the car, programmed the navigation system and set out on our adventure.
I couldn't believe my eyes when we got there and walked in. Nothing could've prepared me for what I experienced. I had been on this breeder's website many times, looking at pictures of puppies and reading all about the breed. All I can say is that whoever created her website earned their money in spades! What I saw on the website was nothing like how these puppies were being raised. (NOTE: Just because you find a puppy on the AKC website, doesn't mean you may be dealing with the most reputable breeder. DO YOUR HOMEWORK!!!)
There were cages with multiple puppies in each cage. She apparently had three dames with simultaneous litters. The older puppies were running all over the place, defecating and urinating wherever they chose. The father and mother were running in and out of the house. Through the doorway, you could see that the vinyl in the half bath was destroyed. It didn't seem like the breeder had control of the situation.
All the information I had read about getting a puppy directs buyers to always visit the breeder's home before purchasing a puppy, but the Coronavirus precautions had eliminated that opportunity. I don't think I would've purchased my puppy from this breeder had I seen firsthand the conditions up front.
The breeder had told me on the phone that she had started paper training. I saw no evidence of that. One puppy peed on the rug and then a second. "They like peeing on the rug!" was her only response. Red Flag #1.
One puppy defecated right in front of me. "I'll have to clean that up!" It sat there my entire visit, and was still there when I left with my puppy. Red Flag #2.
I showed the breeder the photos of my preparation. "I'd take all of those nice things and put them away for awhile. She'll ruin it all. They mess in their cages and then walk in it." Red Flag #3.
I looked over the contract with the breeder before payment. The contract specifically states, "No flea control products before six months of age." I asked about that and was told by the breeder, "I've already given them a little bit of time outside, so I administered a small dose of flea medicine this morning after I gave her a bath." Red Flag #4.
Thinking back, I should've accepted the loss of the deposit and ran out of there like my hair was on fire. Being a teacher, I have eight weeks off in the summer to complete training of my puppy. If I didn't take this puppy, I would probably go on a waitlist with another breeder and may not get a puppy this summer, which means I would have to wait until next summer.
My husband said as we were driving home, "Why do I feel like we just rescued that puppy?" I figured most of the problems I just noted were related to the breeder's environment and that would change when she came home. I knew there would be some retraining and "correcting" but I thought I had the stamina for it.
To my readers. You need to keep control of this situation.
1. The first and most important rule is "Do Your Research". Choose your puppy based on breed information. What can you provide the puppy in relation to time, financial resources, environment. Which breed personality fits your lifestyle? Do you have children? Other pets? Don't get side-tracked by those beautiful puppy eyes.
2. Remember that you are the customer and you are in charge. Don't be bullied by a seller. Some breeders are like Used Car Salesmen. "There is someone else looking at this puppy and I have a waitlist, so if you don't get her, I'll have her sold by this afternoon."
3. Do not commit to buying a puppy before visiting the kennel. This is the most difficult and one rule where you may not be able to follow it. When I got Millie, I flew to Orlando and picked her up. I bought her from a photo online. Many new puppy owners do this. Some have them shipped to them. I can't imagine doing that, but it isn't uncommon.
4. If the breeder isn't forthcoming with information, walk away. There are many other puppies out there. You're making a big investment in time and money. Make it count. Ask for photos of the puppies development if you can't visit. Ask for pictures of parents - CURRENT PICTURES. Ask for videos. With electronic media what it is today, a good breeder should accommodate these requests without hesitation. Mine did not. I dismissed this as a mother having to deal with homeschooling during a pandemic.
5. Make sure you and the breeder have a firm understanding of the transaction. What is going to be done on their end? What do you get when you pick up your puppy? What support will the breeder provide after you get the puppy home. Have it all in writing. You should have a binding contract.
6. "Trust your gut." If something doesn't feel right, it's probably best to walk away.
On May 26, one day shy of eight weeks from her birth, my husband and I got in the car, programmed the navigation system and set out on our adventure.
I couldn't believe my eyes when we got there and walked in. Nothing could've prepared me for what I experienced. I had been on this breeder's website many times, looking at pictures of puppies and reading all about the breed. All I can say is that whoever created her website earned their money in spades! What I saw on the website was nothing like how these puppies were being raised. (NOTE: Just because you find a puppy on the AKC website, doesn't mean you may be dealing with the most reputable breeder. DO YOUR HOMEWORK!!!)
There were cages with multiple puppies in each cage. She apparently had three dames with simultaneous litters. The older puppies were running all over the place, defecating and urinating wherever they chose. The father and mother were running in and out of the house. Through the doorway, you could see that the vinyl in the half bath was destroyed. It didn't seem like the breeder had control of the situation.
All the information I had read about getting a puppy directs buyers to always visit the breeder's home before purchasing a puppy, but the Coronavirus precautions had eliminated that opportunity. I don't think I would've purchased my puppy from this breeder had I seen firsthand the conditions up front.
The breeder had told me on the phone that she had started paper training. I saw no evidence of that. One puppy peed on the rug and then a second. "They like peeing on the rug!" was her only response. Red Flag #1.
One puppy defecated right in front of me. "I'll have to clean that up!" It sat there my entire visit, and was still there when I left with my puppy. Red Flag #2.
I showed the breeder the photos of my preparation. "I'd take all of those nice things and put them away for awhile. She'll ruin it all. They mess in their cages and then walk in it." Red Flag #3.
I looked over the contract with the breeder before payment. The contract specifically states, "No flea control products before six months of age." I asked about that and was told by the breeder, "I've already given them a little bit of time outside, so I administered a small dose of flea medicine this morning after I gave her a bath." Red Flag #4.
Thinking back, I should've accepted the loss of the deposit and ran out of there like my hair was on fire. Being a teacher, I have eight weeks off in the summer to complete training of my puppy. If I didn't take this puppy, I would probably go on a waitlist with another breeder and may not get a puppy this summer, which means I would have to wait until next summer.
My husband said as we were driving home, "Why do I feel like we just rescued that puppy?" I figured most of the problems I just noted were related to the breeder's environment and that would change when she came home. I knew there would be some retraining and "correcting" but I thought I had the stamina for it.
To my readers. You need to keep control of this situation.
1. The first and most important rule is "Do Your Research". Choose your puppy based on breed information. What can you provide the puppy in relation to time, financial resources, environment. Which breed personality fits your lifestyle? Do you have children? Other pets? Don't get side-tracked by those beautiful puppy eyes.
2. Remember that you are the customer and you are in charge. Don't be bullied by a seller. Some breeders are like Used Car Salesmen. "There is someone else looking at this puppy and I have a waitlist, so if you don't get her, I'll have her sold by this afternoon."
3. Do not commit to buying a puppy before visiting the kennel. This is the most difficult and one rule where you may not be able to follow it. When I got Millie, I flew to Orlando and picked her up. I bought her from a photo online. Many new puppy owners do this. Some have them shipped to them. I can't imagine doing that, but it isn't uncommon.
4. If the breeder isn't forthcoming with information, walk away. There are many other puppies out there. You're making a big investment in time and money. Make it count. Ask for photos of the puppies development if you can't visit. Ask for pictures of parents - CURRENT PICTURES. Ask for videos. With electronic media what it is today, a good breeder should accommodate these requests without hesitation. Mine did not. I dismissed this as a mother having to deal with homeschooling during a pandemic.
5. Make sure you and the breeder have a firm understanding of the transaction. What is going to be done on their end? What do you get when you pick up your puppy? What support will the breeder provide after you get the puppy home. Have it all in writing. You should have a binding contract.
6. "Trust your gut." If something doesn't feel right, it's probably best to walk away.
Wednesday, June 3, 2020
Chapter 2 - Preparing for the Big Day
Chapter 2 - Preparation for the Big Day aka Where Did All That Money Go?
I have never owned an eight week old puppy before. Louie was 14 weeks old when he came to live with me; Millie was 16 weeks old when I got her.
The first thing I want to tell my readers ... if you've never owned an eight week old puppy, you have no idea what it's like to own an eight week old puppy!
I am a "planner" and an "organizer". I didn't want to get her here and think, "I wish I had thought to ..." I started hitting all the discount shops!
I purchased Harleigh a nice "orthopedic" pet bed shaped like a chair. It was super soft and comfortable. ($9.99 Beals Outlet)
I had already talked to the breeder and had purchased a 13 lb. bag of her food (Royal Canin Small Puppy formula/$25 Pet Supply Plus). I got a cute little food mat ($5.99/TJ Maxx), and already had the food and water dish set in a pink wire holder!
I bought additional baby gates! ($49/Wayfair) I purchased pee pads! ($15.99 for a box of 120 x 3/Sam's Club) Since I read that small puppies liked to pull their pads around, play with them, and shred them, I figured I would just make it that more difficult by putting them in this amazing pad holder! ($24.99/Amazon)
I had toys but also purchased new ones ($20/Petsmart), especially chew toys ($15/TJ Maxx). I had a crate (from previous pets) but it needed a new mat ($12.99/TJ Maxx). Please notice how I used foam shelf lining ($5.99/TJ Maxx) to protect the bottom so she couldn't hurt herself on the metal cage floor. I even crocheted the lining onto the metal cage so she couldn't pull it up and chew on it. That took hours!
I bought a car carrier to transport her. ($14.99/Tuesday Morning) I got her a cute little collar ($5.99/Tuesday Morning) for the leather lead I already owned.
Have you been tallying my total? I had spent almost $250 already just on supplies! I can't imagine the total if I had to purchase a new crate! I was smart enough to keep a lot of things from my previous pups!
Before Harleigh's arrival I had scrubbed our tile floors with a pet-friendly cleaner. (It's called "Whip It" - do yourself a favor and get yourself some. It's awesome. It is non-toxic, eco-friendly, 100% natural, made in America. And it is an amazing cleaner!)
I have never owned an eight week old puppy before. Louie was 14 weeks old when he came to live with me; Millie was 16 weeks old when I got her.
The first thing I want to tell my readers ... if you've never owned an eight week old puppy, you have no idea what it's like to own an eight week old puppy!
I am a "planner" and an "organizer". I didn't want to get her here and think, "I wish I had thought to ..." I started hitting all the discount shops!
I purchased Harleigh a nice "orthopedic" pet bed shaped like a chair. It was super soft and comfortable. ($9.99 Beals Outlet)
I had already talked to the breeder and had purchased a 13 lb. bag of her food (Royal Canin Small Puppy formula/$25 Pet Supply Plus). I got a cute little food mat ($5.99/TJ Maxx), and already had the food and water dish set in a pink wire holder!
I bought additional baby gates! ($49/Wayfair) I purchased pee pads! ($15.99 for a box of 120 x 3/Sam's Club) Since I read that small puppies liked to pull their pads around, play with them, and shred them, I figured I would just make it that more difficult by putting them in this amazing pad holder! ($24.99/Amazon)
I had toys but also purchased new ones ($20/Petsmart), especially chew toys ($15/TJ Maxx). I had a crate (from previous pets) but it needed a new mat ($12.99/TJ Maxx). Please notice how I used foam shelf lining ($5.99/TJ Maxx) to protect the bottom so she couldn't hurt herself on the metal cage floor. I even crocheted the lining onto the metal cage so she couldn't pull it up and chew on it. That took hours!
I bought a car carrier to transport her. ($14.99/Tuesday Morning) I got her a cute little collar ($5.99/Tuesday Morning) for the leather lead I already owned.
Have you been tallying my total? I had spent almost $250 already just on supplies! I can't imagine the total if I had to purchase a new crate! I was smart enough to keep a lot of things from my previous pups!
Before Harleigh's arrival I had scrubbed our tile floors with a pet-friendly cleaner. (It's called "Whip It" - do yourself a favor and get yourself some. It's awesome. It is non-toxic, eco-friendly, 100% natural, made in America. And it is an amazing cleaner!)
Chapter 1 - Choosing A Breed
Chapter 1: Choosing A Breed
A friend of mine asked recently, "Why don't you rescue a dog? You've always had purebred dogs; why do you do that when it would be less expensive to adopt one and it could save an animal's life?" For me, it's an easy answer. A) I prefer a puppy because I want the maximum time I can get with a furry companion. It is one of life's cruelest jokes that dogs and cats have such short life spans. Anyone who has had to deal with a pet passing knows the severe heartache attached to it. I would like to limit that experience as much as possible. B) I want to know what they will grow into. That way I can anticipate the needs. I can also train them early.
I prefer breeds that are small but not "toy". When I got Millie I lived in an apartment on the third floor. I house trained her to puppy pee pee pads. It was awesome. I never had to deal with the weather, going outside after dark, she didn't have to "hold it" when I was away from the house for an extended period of time, etc. I wanted another dog small enough to train this way.
I definitely wanted to get my puppy directly from a breeder, so I turned to the AKC website and their "Find A Puppy" section. Since shipping a puppy was not an option, I tried to find a puppy within a 100 mile radius of my home.
It appears the Coronavirus has caused a surge in pet ownership; it was quite difficult to locate a puppy. Breeders informed me that puppies were getting reserved as quickly as they could list them. Several breeders offered to put me on waitlists for future litters. One breeder suggested that I check the AKC site a few times each day, which is how I finally located Harleigh.
A breeder in a nearby town, about 15 miles away, listed a litter of West Highland White puppies in early April (born April 1). I immediately contacted her and was able to reserve a female. I sent in the deposit. Unfortunately, I was not allowed to visit the litter during to the current health risks of Covid19. The breeder told me she was going to let new owners come on May 26, the day after Memorial Day, to get their puppies. They would be eight weeks old.
A friend of mine asked recently, "Why don't you rescue a dog? You've always had purebred dogs; why do you do that when it would be less expensive to adopt one and it could save an animal's life?" For me, it's an easy answer. A) I prefer a puppy because I want the maximum time I can get with a furry companion. It is one of life's cruelest jokes that dogs and cats have such short life spans. Anyone who has had to deal with a pet passing knows the severe heartache attached to it. I would like to limit that experience as much as possible. B) I want to know what they will grow into. That way I can anticipate the needs. I can also train them early.
I prefer breeds that are small but not "toy". When I got Millie I lived in an apartment on the third floor. I house trained her to puppy pee pee pads. It was awesome. I never had to deal with the weather, going outside after dark, she didn't have to "hold it" when I was away from the house for an extended period of time, etc. I wanted another dog small enough to train this way.
I definitely wanted to get my puppy directly from a breeder, so I turned to the AKC website and their "Find A Puppy" section. Since shipping a puppy was not an option, I tried to find a puppy within a 100 mile radius of my home.
It appears the Coronavirus has caused a surge in pet ownership; it was quite difficult to locate a puppy. Breeders informed me that puppies were getting reserved as quickly as they could list them. Several breeders offered to put me on waitlists for future litters. One breeder suggested that I check the AKC site a few times each day, which is how I finally located Harleigh.
A breeder in a nearby town, about 15 miles away, listed a litter of West Highland White puppies in early April (born April 1). I immediately contacted her and was able to reserve a female. I sent in the deposit. Unfortunately, I was not allowed to visit the litter during to the current health risks of Covid19. The breeder told me she was going to let new owners come on May 26, the day after Memorial Day, to get their puppies. They would be eight weeks old.
Prologue
PROLOGUE
... And so it begins ...
My last dog's name was Millie. She was a Cavalier King Charles Spaniel and I lost her to cancer three years ago. I'm not sure I'll ever get over her loss. I told someone that I had owned three dogs as an adult. The first one was a pet. The second one, a Miniature Schnauzer named Louie, was a family member. But Millie was a true friend. I got her after my divorce and she saw me through some rough times. She also saw me through some really good ones.
I remarried and my second husband had talked me out of getting a new pet until we retired, which won't be for a couple more years. So, as an elementary school teacher, I relied on my students to fill that nurturing void. Their hugs, laughter, and heart-felt discussions have really made being "pet-free" fairly painless; however, the Coronavirus has changed all that now. In mid-March, the school systems turned to digital learning. I no longer had that personal time with my students.
With sheltering in place, I only left my home one time each week to do grocery shopping and pick up prescriptions. My husband's job is considered "essential", so he is still going to work. Unfortunately, he has been so busy that he is working 13 days before having a day off. That has been going on for over two months now. It makes for a lonely house.
The end of March, he asked what I wanted for my upcoming birthday and anniversary. I told him he could kill two birds with one stone and get me a pet. It was our 10 Year Anniversary, so it's a big one! Reluctantly, he gave in.
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